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If you think Iceland is already a destination defined by wilderness and wonder, prepare yourself for Vigur - a even more remote island in the Westfjords, a place where time slows and nature’s raw beauty takes center stage.
My journey to this arctic paradise began with a long drive from Reykjavik, each mile taking me further from the bustle of city life and deeper into Iceland's rugged terrain. The closer we got to the Westfjords, the more the landscape seemed to come alive. I could almost feel the stories of the fishermen and settlers of old whispering through the wind as we passed by deserted homesteads and weathered buildings.
Our adventure really began when we arrived in Súðavik late in the afternoon, where we were met by Gisli, our host. I could sense his passion for this isolated island as he welcomed us aboard his small boat for a short sail over to Vigur. As soon as we reached the shores, the feeling of remoteness struck me - a unique mix of isolation and peace, the sensation that I had stepped into a world almost forgotten by time.
Welcomed warmly by Felicity Aston, Gisli’s partner, it was hard not to be in awe. Felicity isn’t just any island dweller; she’s a polar explorer who became the first person to ski alone across the Antarctic landmass using only her own muscle power, and the first woman to do so solo. Her presence on Vigur, alongside Gisli, adds a sense of adventure to the island’s already compelling story. Together, they make Vigur not just a destination, but an experience.
Vigur is more than just a speck in the Arctic waters; it is an ecological sanctuary. The island is a haven for countless species of Arctic birds, including 7,000 breeding Eider Ducks, 100,000 puffins, and Europe’s largest colony of Black Guillemot. As I explored the island, I learned about the fascinating practice of eiderdown farming — a tradition that dates back centuries and one that the island’s sole family still upholds today. Eiderdown, the soft feathers left behind in the nests of Common Eider ducks, is one of the world’s most coveted natural insulators, prized by explorers and even astronauts. The sustainable practice is an example of a unique harmony between man and nature: the ducks return to Vigur year after year, protected by the presence of the island’s residents, who in turn collect the valuable down.
After a traditional island dinner prepared by our hosts, I took a moment to breathe in the pure Arctic air. The evening sun lingered, casting a golden glow over the island’s rustic buildings, including Iceland's only windmill and its oldest working boat. The serenity was palpable. That night, we stayed in one of the historic guesthouses on the island, filled with its unique character—steep staircases, cozy corners, and a deep sense of history.
The next day began with a refreshing walk to the shore, the crisp air filling my lungs, followed by a cup of freshly brewed coffee. We embarked on a hike around the island, taking in the untouched beauty, learning about the lives of our hosts, and hearing tales of their many adventures in the polar regions. Later, a private chef arrived to prepare a dinner that was nothing short of magical, a fitting end to a day filled with discovery and wonder. And as if on cue, the northern lights appeared dancing across the sky in a dazzling display that seemed close enough to touch. It’s hard to describe the sensation, but it was as if the very air hummed with the energy of the lights.
Waking up on our final morning was bittersweet. Knowing we would soon leave this unique place made me savor every moment, every sound, and every sight just a little more. After a warm goodbye to Gisli and Felicity, we sailed back to Súðavik, then continued our journey with a stop at the breathtaking Dynjandi waterfall. The roar of the cascading water felt like a powerful farewell from the Westfjords, an echo of the raw beauty we’d experienced on Vigur.
Vigur is more than a destination; it’s an experience that stays with you long after you’ve left its shores. It’s a place where history, culture, and nature blend seamlessly, where you feel the heartbeat of Iceland in every gust of wind and every call of the seabirds. For those who think Iceland’s wilderness isn’t wild enough, Vigur is your answer - an arctic paradise where time slows, and the spirit of adventure is very much alive.
If you ever find yourself yearning for an experience off the beaten path, where hospitality is as warm as the landscape is wild, Vigur awaits. And trust me, it’s a journey you will never forget.
